In the outskirts of Bikaner is Jorbeer
Conservation Reserve a protected area that has been developed as a home and
feeding ground for a number of endangered species such as raptors, kites,
eagles and vultures.
Though Jorbeer is a a ‘paradise of raptors’, it
is also a paradise for those who enjoy bird watching, birding and bird
photography.
A few weeks before reaching Bikaner, I
contacted a birder who organised birding for me. As I had meetings during the
day, the birding I did was during the early hours of the morning and late
afternoon.
Jorbeer is not really a wildlife sanctuary. It
is unfortunately a dumbing ground for dead carcases. Carcases of cows,
buffalos, camels and even dogs are dumped here, and these carcases attracts not
only the birds, but also birdwatchers.
Every winter, thousands of migratory birds head
to Jorbeer Conservation Reserve and along with them come hoards of birders. I
was one of them. Because of the ample food available for all, the birds look
completely at ease with Human presence as they tear into the skin of dead
animals. The feral dogs nearby gave them company and despite being competitors,
they co-existed together.
What I found fascinating was the number of
raptors I saw. I counted at least a few hundred Egyptian Vultures and Steppe
Eagles, but what caught my imagination was the Cinereous Vulture, with its large
black wings and pink head. In fact, by the end of the day, I had seen so many
Egyptian Vultures and Steppe Eagles that I stopped taking any pictures of them
and concentrated on other birds such as Imperial Eagles, Long-legged buzzard,
Common Starlings, Grey Francolin and Desert Wheatear.
The only thing that was scary was the number of
feral dogs, that were not only aggressive, but with their mouths, red with all
the fresh meat and blood, I feared a bite from them would require a serious
amount of medication.
The next morning, before catching my flight
back to Delhi, my guide drove me around the open dessert, looking for the
desert fox (apparently someone had spotted a fox with its cubs yesterday) and
some raptors. The fox we didn’t see, but spotted a number of raptors such as
Long-legged buzzard and Imperial Eagles.
Overall, for a birder, I would give Jorbeer a
10/10, but I am not sure if I will want to visit again. Not that it was not
brilliant, but because I think I saw too much of everything …. at least for the moment, I am done.
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